Troncoso. When you’re arriving it looks like so many other Brazilian small towns, the dusty, uneven roads, lined on either side by small shops, pizzerias and churrascarias. It’s when you arrive at the ‘cuadro’, a vehicle free section of the town that includes the old, white, Portuguese mission style church, a large extent of green grass going directly out in front of it, and restaurants and pousadas on either side.
The view behind the church is very much like in Arraial d’Ajuda. You find yourself situated on top a hill that gives a great view of the ocean, the beach with its gentle waves coming in, and the palm tree filled beach. It’s at night that is really impressive in the cuadro.
The sky is amazingly clear and it’s really beautiful the number of stars you can see. Stargazing is amazing from there. The church at the end of the square is lit up by lights that circumnavigate the perimeter highlighting all four sides of it. The church’s pristine white paint stands out against the pitch black of the night all around it. In the square there was a stray, or at least free to wander, white horse that grazes in the grassy center. Its color reminded me of “…and behold a pale horse”. He seems friendly enough but take your eye off him and he’ll inch nearer and nearer ninja-style. The beach in Troncoso is really nice. A good expanse of soft-sanded beach with a backdrop of palm trees and people selling coconuts, sights that you come to anticipate and love about all coastal towns in Bahia state.